Hook up multiple speakers to receiver

If all you want is 5 stereo pairs look at something more appropriate to that many stereo pairs like these units instead of a receiver or do you need other functionality of the receiver? Receivers aren't generally set up to handle more than two or three stereo pairs So 10 speakers, connected in series, to 5 outputs of a 5. How do you connect 5 things to 10 things in series??

It doesn't even begin to make sense. That is about like saying "we will put 11 wheels on the car in a backwards-forward-sideways configuration". It would be far better to just have each output connected to a single speaker. I mean 2 speakers in series, for each output , for a total of 10 speakers. Would they be in two different rooms or locations? Is that what you are getting at? If they are going to all be in the same location, why use two instead of one larger one?

If two rooms or locations, just get a receiver with two zones. For a bar-club with multiple rooms , low listening levels, the owner actually wanted 14 speakers What is a hoop barn? Some sort of basketball camp? You would need a speaker selector switch with impedance protection like this. Make sure it has adequate ventilation. The Onkyo also has pre-outs, so you could add additional amplification, if necessary. Speaker selector switch is the way to go - impedance protection and ability to select zones independently. You don't mention what receiver you have but I would hope it's a fairly safe bet to conclude any modern "stereo" receiver has two pairs of speaker outputs wired internally to be in parallel.

Very little that applies to a two channel stereo receiver transfers easily to a 5. In other words, with a two channel system, when only speaker "A" is engaged, the amplifier sees a load which represents one pair of speakers. When both "A" and "B" speaker outputs are engaged, the amplifier sees a parallel connection which would then show the amp approximatey half the impedance of the lower impedance speaker of the two pairs.

There are also receivers being built today which do not allow both speaker ouptuts to be active simultaneously. In this case, when you engage one speaker switch, the other switch is automatically disengaged in order to provide protection to the amplifier. Therefore, if one set of speakers presents a nominal eight Ohm load while the second speaker set represents a nominal impedance of six Ohms, the amp will see a load of approximately three Ohms. Most modern receivers would be hard pressed to withstand a three ohm load for any length of time if the volume levels are being pushed.

You also do not mention whether the speakers you intend to connect are all the same speaker model or whether they differ from each other. In other words, here you have failed to provide any information which might tell us more about the load the individual speakers will present. Further, if one set of speakers is rated as a "nominal" or average eight ohm load, the strong possibility exists that any speaker will not remain at eight ohms for its entire frequency response. With a wandering impedance from each speaker set it would be quite possible for even two pairs of "nominal eight Ohm" speakers to show the amp a load which would qualify as dangerous.

Since we know nothing about the impedance of each speaker set or the capacity of youru receiver to drive low impedance loads, the safest way to recommend you go about this matter would be to suggest you insert a master speaker selection switch box between the amp and the individual speaker pairs. Only connecting speakers in series presents a few problems.

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By using a series connection between the speaker pairs both speaker sets must be playing at the same time - there is no way to switch off "set one" and only have "set two" playing. The same problem would apply to volume control, both speaker sets would have to be playing at an identical master volume level. Connecting two sets into speakers "A" on the receiver and two pairs into speakers "B" on the receiver without any intervening volume controls would further mean all four pairs of speakers will be set at the same output level by the master volume control of the receiver.

It would be a very unusual installation where all four pairs of speakers were intended to play all at once and all at the same volume level. Buying a small speaker switch box to insert between the receiver's speaker outputs and the individual pairs of speakers will; first, provide control over which speakers are playing at any one time. If there will only ever be just one pair of speakers playing at any one time, the switch is all you will need. However, it is also highly unusual for a multi-room installation to only have one pair of speakers playing.

More likely is the siutuation where you want more than one pair of speakers playing and that you would also want to control the volume level of each pair of speakers. Now, if your system requirements are typical, you will require volume controls to be inserted into the system either at the master control area of the receiver and speaker selector or you could use a switch box located with the receiver and individual volume controls in each room with the speakers. You'll have to decide which set up is the most convenient for your installation.

If you are doing a pre-wire of a new house being built, then individual controls located with the speakers is the best overall choice. For pre-existing construction, it's often simpler to locate the vc's in the same spot as the speaker switch box. Using autoformer type volume controls or an autoformer based speaker switch box is the best way to ensure the safety of the installation.

Autoformers inserted between the amplifier and the speakers will always ensure the amplifier sees a solid eight ohm load which would never vary up or down no matter how many speaker sets are in use. This is the safest way to protect your receiver from a dangerous drop in impedance load. Use either individual autoformer volume controls or a single autoformer based switch box with volume controls. You only need the autoformers in one location.

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If you buy the autoformer switch box, then use conventional L-pad type volume controls. If you use the autoformer type volume controls, then a conventional switch box is your choice. There are less expensive switch boxes and volume controls available. IMO the autoformers are well worth the investment as they will last for the life of the install and there should never be a situation where the receiver blows up due to impedance loading.

Any shop that specializes in full house automation or sound systems should be able to recommend the appropriate products once you've explained how you intend to use the system. The autoformer volume controls and switch boxes are also available on line. Generally, I recommend you go through a local dealer whenever possibe for after the sale assistance should you have problems installing the devices. Mike Q New member Username: I want to connect it to 4 8-ohms speakers. What would be the best connection in my case?

Your feedback is appreciated. Are your intentions to simultaneously run all four speakers? With a mini-system, there are no good options. Speakers are not just 8 Ohms and, if they swing their impedance by much, any connection scenario can cause problems. Try a parallel connection and don't push the amp. Check to make sure the amp is not running hotter than normal. If you feel it is heating up, try the series connection and again check for excessive heat. Papang New member Username: Roo Mexico Post Number: RMS per channel in stereo.

Connecting many speakers to one receiver or amplifier

And yes I got it around I don't use it a lot, maybe the reason it is still chugging along, but I just recently rescued a Realistic Optimus Pro SW passive sub-woofer rated at w. The problem is that there is no connection for this speaker s-woofer on the receiver. I tried wiring as recommended, both front channels to the woofer and then one each to the 2 main speakers. This is the "safe" way to connect everything but I was wondering if I could do the following, NOT wanting to risk my antique amp with something lame-brained, but just get a bit of "better" sound: In essence, wiring the left channel of one of the main speakers along with the left channel of the woofer, into the same channel connection of the receiver, and the same with the right.

The backplate of the receiver where the 2 connections for the 2 main front speakers says: I have no idea what it means--maybe 2 - 8 ohms speakers per channel? As my system is pretty old, I am sure it has none of the modern day fail-safes of modern systems. I haven't even opened the case so I am not sure if fuses exist if the amp is overloaded. I have added a 6" DC fan to the cabinet to ventilate the receiver with fresh air to help it via a surplus PSU-will add led background lighting later on connected to this psu similar to overclocking a cpu.

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BTW, it is not easy to wire something in series as the speaker wires are hidden behind the walls of a recent home theater remodel. I could send a pic of this setup if necessary. Your help is much appreciated. Your math is showing your grade in Principles of Electricity. Bass frequencies are the most demanding of any amplifier and this load would be extremely taxing on the amp. Driving the load at window shaking volumes would likely shut down your amp - possibly forever. A Realistic "sub" woofer isn't a subwoofer. Sorry, but their audio products simply aren't very good and their specs are meant to mislead the ignorant.

The device might possibly add slightly more midbass sound to a system capable of driving a passive speaker system. That's not a "subwoofer" and you could achieve very much the same affect by shoving your existing speakers into the corners of the room.

Connecting multiple speakers to one output.

That's not the path to good sound quality IMO. Buy a for-real subwoofer if you feel your system requires the deepest octave and one half to be present. Though, given the age of your receiver, I suspect you lack a LFE channel output. You're running what, Dolby Pro Logic? Without a dedicated effects output, your receiver is simply not going to provide the discrete low frequency information any subwoofer expects to be available today. But just adding more drivers to the system is not, IMO, the way to go.

After almost 20 years, it's time to step into 21st century technology if you want 21st century sound.

How Do I Hook Up Multiple Speakers to a Receiver with No Zone 2 Output?: BigPictureBigSound

And yes, I run Dolby Pro Logic most of the time, pretty neat in its time, he-he. I never saw a woofer connected to a system back then, just big speaker boxes with beefy " speakers. As a matter of fact, powered sub woofers were quite rare and super expensive too. If my woofer were powered, problem solved IMO. I would connect it the "safe" way the two front speaker channels to the woofer and from the woofer to each front speaker and get booming bass which is the where tastes have drifted nowadays.

It would also mean that the 2 - 10" speakers of my front speakers would in effect be there for "show", not getting any frequencies to drive them as when I used the recommended connection for the Realistic and did my trials. I agree that the Realistic is just a big heavy speaker with a cutoff for lower frequencies, something I should have suspected, overall, because of it being of the passive type. It's just embarrassing telling everyone that it is not connected and is "work in progress", sitting next to my stereo.

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  • I have a 30w. I had been dallying with the idea except I have found no info to the respect. Living in Cancun just makes it worse for these type of things luv the weather and the place tho. Any idea s about this? Like I said, there are just the 5 connections to the five speakers, none more.

    I suspect that if I use one of the 5 powered connections, it would be risky? As mentioned, this system still shakes windows, hehe, especially not being "upper tier" stuff.